本研究以模擬實驗探討波浪在斜坡海灘上的行為。實驗在長1.8公尺、寬0.75公尺的透明水波槽中進行,以長0.90公尺、寬0.60公尺的木板在深水區產生單峰波向淺水區前進,同時以數位錄影機錄影後進行分析。結果發現單峰波由深水進入淺水,波速會變慢,但當波高對水深的比值增加到一定值時,波速隨水深變淺而變快,波高也變高。當比值繼續增加,波前方的水面形成垂直的水牆,接著波就碎了。如果坡度較緩,碎波點會離水岸線較遠,水牆維持的時間也較長。有趣的是,水波槽中的單峰波移動時,有蠕動現象,波寬會伸縮,波高會起伏,波速也會些微地忽快忽慢。 ;This study simulates the behavior of the wave on a sloping beach. Experiments are performed in a sloping wave tank. A paddle wave maker at the deeper end generates single crest waves. To analyze the wave height, speed and breaking point, a digital camera is used. The results show that when the wave moves toward the coast, the shallower the water is, the slower the wave moves. But when the ratio (wave-height/water-depth) exceeds a critical value, it turns out that when the water is shallower, the wave speed becomes faster and the wave height, higher. As the ratio keeps on increasing, the front part of wave becomes a vertical water-wall, and then breaks. If the slope is gentler, the breaking point will be farther from the coast and the water-wall will keep for a longer time. An interesting phenomenon is also found that a single crest wave squirms with slightly undulated changing of width, height, and speed while it propagates in the sloping wave tank.
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